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Central Vacuum Installation Guide...

Complete Installation Manual

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Enjoy the ultimate in cleaning convenience and efficiency. All it takes is one weekend.

Dust, dirt, pollen, dander, fur and hair--there's no end to the stuff that accumulates in our homes, and getting rid of it can be a real chore. In our house, in addition to the trusty broom and dustpan, we use a small vacuum for the stairs and the car, an upright for the carpeting, and a shop vacuum for the garage. They all need filters, belts and periodic maintenance or replacement. It's hard to believe that we could replace most of these cleaning tools with a central vacuum system that's not only more convenient but does a much better job of cleaning.

ANYONE WHO'S HANDY WITH TOOLS CAN INSTALL THIS SYSTEM

The most challenging aspect is figuring out how to get the pipes from here to there, and for this, knowledge of house construction is a big plus. You'll need a hammer, tape measure, hacksaw, torpedo or line level, 2-1/2 in. hole saw, drywall-type keyhole saw, wire cutter and stripper, pliers, utility knife, flashlight, clothes hanger, a marker pen and an electric drill and screwdrivers. A simple wooden miter box (Photo 10) is helpful for making square cuts. Drilling through 3 in. of solid lumber with a 3/8-in. drill and a hole saw is difficult and time-consuming. The job will go much quicker and easier if you rent or borrow a 1/2-in. right-angle drill (about $20 a day) and a 2-9/16 in. self-feeding bit. The right-angle head will allow access to spots your straight drill can't reach, and the powerful motor and self-feeding bit make hole drilling a snap.

BUYING TIPS

We strongly recommend buying from a central vacuum specialist who can help you design the system and walk you through the installation process. Look in the Yellow Pages under "Vacuum Cleaning Systems, Central." 

The system for purpose of this article requires an electrical outlet within 6 ft. of the inlet valve to plug in the optional power head. For added convenience, you can install a special inlet valve with a 110-volt connection built in, but note that this work probably requires a permit from your local building department and must meet local electrical codes.

Besides selling you the power unit and attachments, your central vacuum dealer should be able to provide all of the specialized parts you'll need for the installation. You'll need an assortment of fittings including: The correct number of inlet valves and mounting plates.  Also pick up 2-in. O.D. thin-wall PVC pipe (manufactured specially for central vacuum installations)  Pipe straps to attach the pipes to the joists PVC primer and glue Two-wire 18-gauge low-voltage wire (thermostat wire works great) Cable ties and orange electrical connectors You'll need some small screws or nails for the pipe straps and 2-1/2 in. wood screws to attach the power unit bracket to the wall.  Don't forget a fire stop collar if you'll be running plastic pipe from the attached garage into the house.

PLAN PIPE ROUTES TO AVOID OBSTACLES

First choose a place for the power unit. An attached garage or a utility room is the usual location. Check the instructions for power requirements, and hire an electrician to add a separate circuit or additional outlet if necessary.

Next find the best spots for the inlet valves. Use a 30-ft. piece of string, or the hose if you have it, to find valve locations that allow you to reach all areas of the house easily. Pick convenient locations away from furniture, and if you plan to use the power head attachment, make sure there's an electrical outlet within 6 ft. The inlet valves must be connected to the main (trunk) line, located in either the attic or the basement, depending on how your house is constructed. Because that line must run between the studs in the wall, you should avoid picking spots with obvious obstacles like heating ducts or light switches. If you can't find suitable wall locations for the inlet valves, mount them in the floor. It won't look as nice, but it may be the only option.

When you've found potential inlet valve locations, plan the route the 2-in. PVC pipe will take from the power unit to each inlet. 

INSTALLATION TIPS FOR A TROUBLE-FREE SYSTEM

The fittings and inlet valves we're using are a common brand that is compatible with many manufacturers' vacuum systems. You may decide to buy a vacuum that requires inlet valves unique to the system, in which case the installation details will be a little different.

To find the hole locations for the inlet pipes from the basement, use a coat hanger for a reference bit . If you don't mind patching a little hole in the ceiling, you can use the same technique to locate the attic holes. Otherwise, you'll have to measure over from a reference point, locate this spot in the attic and transfer the measurement.

Be very careful when you're drilling the large holes. If the bit binds or catches on a nail, the drill handle will spin, possibly twisting your wrist or smashing into you. Start the hole slowly, holding the drill firmly with both hands while applying steady pressure. Be aware of the trigger lock button so you don't accidentally lock it on when you're drilling, and wear safety glasses.

Always use a short 90-degree "L" at the inlet valve. The sharp bend fits easily in a 2x4 wall and has the added benefit of trapping large objects before they can get into the main pipes and cause real problems. Use the more gently curving "sweep" 90s and 45s to make the other bends.

Use T-fittings to join a branch line pipe to a trunk line. Face the inside curve of the "T" toward the power unit and always connect a branch line so it enters the trunk line from the side or above, never from below. Connecting it from below can contribute to clogging by allowing dirt to fall down the pipe and collect at the bottom. If you run pipes in cold spaces, like attics, cover them with insulation; otherwise, moisture will condense inside the pipe, collect dust and eventually clog the line.

With careful planning to minimize bends and eliminate dirt traps, and attention to details like cleaning the burrs from inside the cut end of pipes, clogs shouldn't be a problem. If a pipe does get plugged, use a plumber's drain snake to dislodge the object.

1 DRILL a reference hole into the basement directly below the spot where you would like to place the inlet valve. Use a 12-in. length of coat hanger snipped off at an angles as a bit. The inlet valve must be located between the studs in the wall. use a stud finder or knock on the wall to locate the studs.

Go to the basement and measure over form the coat hanger 1-3/4 in. plus the thickness of the baseboard and wall covering material. Deduct about 1/4 in. to compensate for the angle of the bit, and mark this spot as the center of the hole for the inlet pipe.

2 DRILL a hole for the inlet pipe using an electric drill and a 2-1/2 in. hole saw. Stop when you've drilled through the sub-floor (about 3/4 in.), pull out the circle of wood and inspect the hole to verify that it's centered on the bottom wall plate and not going into the finish floor or baseboard. Adjust the location if necessary and complete the hole. Before you cut the wall for the inlet, look inside the wall with a flashlight to make sure the coast is clear. Plastic-coated wiring can usually be gently nudged aside to make way for a pipe, but if ducting or plumbing is in the way, you'll have to find a new spot.

3 LOCATE the height to the center of the inlet valve cutout by measuring from the floor to the center of the closest electrical outlet. Center the template provided or the inlet valve mounting plate on this mark and directly above the pilot hole in the floor. Use a torpedo or line level to plumb the template. Then trace around it and cut along the lines with a drywall saw.

4 PREPARE THE INLET VALVE FOR INSTALLATION

* PUSH a piece of low-voltage wire from the basement through the inlet hole.

* REMOVE the nailing fin on the mounting plate by scoring with a utility knife and snapping it off.

* APPLY PVC primer, then a generous 1-in. wide band of PVC cement to the pipe stub on the back of the mounting plate and quickly attach a 90-degree short "L," giving it a quarter twist as you slide it on. Use the marks on the fittings to help in alignment.

* PULL the low voltage wire through the bottom hole in the mounting bracket.

* STRIP 3/4 in. of insulation from the ends of the wires. Loop the wire clockwise around the screws on the inlet valve and tighten them. Wire color doesn't matter here.

5 INSTALL the inlet valve. Tilt the mounting plate into the hole and pull it against the drywall. Hold the mounting plate against the drywall with a bent coat hanger while you slide the inlet valve into place. Install the screws that hold the mounting plate and valve together.

6 MEASURE for the inlet pipe by butting your tape measure against the bottom of the short 90-degree "L" and measuring to the top of the lower fitting. Add 1-1/2 in. to this measurement (3/4 in. for each fitting).

7 CUT the pipe using a hacksaw and inexpensive miter box. Clean the burrs from the inside of the pipe with sandpaper or the blade of a utility knife. Slightly bevel the outside edge using the same technique. Apply a band of PVC primer to the end of the pipe, then a 1-in. wide band of PVC cement. Work in a well-ventilated area or wear a respirator. Glue the pipe into the short 90-degree "L," twisting it as you slide it up into the fitting.

8 MEASURE from a reference point such as an intersecting wall to the center of the desired inlet valve location. Measure up from the floor to find the center of the valve location and push or drill a small piece of coat hanger through the drywall or plaster at this spot. Leave the hanger in the wall while you go to the attic to locate and drill the hole for the inlet pipe.

9 LOCATE this spot in the attic, push back the insulation in the area above the proposed inlet and measure from the same reference point to determine the hole-drilling location. Drill a 2-1/2 in. hole down through the double top plate. Look down into the wall with a flashlight to check for obstructions and locate the coat hanger. If there are no obstructions and the hole is directly over the hanger, go back down and cut the inlet hole as shown in. Then return to the attic to drop a pipe down.

10 LOWER the pipe and low-voltage wire down through the wall. Use shorter sections of pipe joined by couplings if low headroom prevents you from using a full-length piece. Tape a piece of low-voltage wire to the piece, leaving about 6 in. at the bottom to connect the inlet valve. Leave the pipe extra long and cut it off later.

11 HOLD the pipe while a helper in the room below applies primer and glue to a short 90-degree elbow and places it through the hole. Then have the helper hold the elbow while you push and twist the pipe into a fitting. Glue the mounting plate to the elbow in the same manner and connect the inlet valve..

12 CUT and assemble the pipe system from the inlet branch lines you've already installed out to the power unit. Dry-fit the entire system. Then return to prime and glue the fittings.